Sneak peak: McCalls

I got it baby! Thanks to Butterick 5605 I figured it out. I never thought I would thank a modern pattern for helping me with a vintage problem.

Butterick 5605

I had some serious doubts about this modern reproduction pattern. I don't usually do well with multisized patterns. That being said, this one came out really well. I did change a couple big things; first off I cut the front bodice piece on the fold. I don't know why they seamed it, I find a middle seam distracting. Anywho, then I flubbed my pattern pieces for the skirt. I cut the skirt back first and didn't have enough fabric for the front piece. Gar! I should have measured it out first. Rookie move. So what I did was use the back for the skirt front with my own box pleats (I didn't want fluffy butt back pleats) and I took the back piece again and used it for the front with the pleats taken out. I just fit everything in and I don't think you would notice that it's not supposed to look that way. I also added the back ties on like an apron. It's crazy to think that Butterick wanted to waste that much fabric with ties attached at the bodice. I have never fully lined a dress before but it was not as unpleasant as I thought. It does increase my sewing time quite a bit though. I also chopped off about 6 inches in length from the hemline. I had it long but once I tried it on I realized it looked like a weird 60s bridesmaid dress. So much better this way. The yellow belt is a an 80s number I got at an estate sale.

I think the modern sizing is just so off. I ended up cutting an 8 on top and scaling to a 12 at the waist and since I couldn't go back to an 8 at the hips I just left it as a 12. It worked out just fine. I also omitted the pockets thinking that the free floating lining and more fabric for the pockets would just be too bulky at the hips.

The only problem i had with this dress was the gussets. They just did not want to turn correctly. But after doing the 4 points of the lining first I think I got enough practice to make the bodice fashion fabric to look good. The fabric is from an estate sale too. I got a gigantic bag of vintage fabric for $10. I never posted it, bummer, but that estate sale was amazing! I walked away with so much for the $11.50 I spent.

And, as per usual, the pictures are out of order. The Blogger app isn't so hot on pictures.